Ancient grains surge in popularity across Wyoming

While all-purpose flour has long been a staple in baking, ancient grains are experiencing a modern resurgence in both commercial and home kitchens.

The ancient grains market is expected to grow by $50 million by 2028 as grains like spelt, einkorn and buckwheat grow in popularity, according to a March 25 Food Manufacturing article by Jere Cassidy. 

“These grains are replacing white flour for their taste, health benefits and sustainability,” she writes.

What are they?

Grain has been an essential ingredient in baking for thousands of years across various cultures. 

All-purpose flour, derived from wheat, serves as the foundation for many breads, pastries and desserts in America and Europe. 

However, over the past decade, ancient grains such as buckwheat, amaranth, teff and Kamut have seen a significant resurgence in baking recipes.

As defined by the Whole Grains Council (WGC), ancient grains are those which have not been changed through breeding. 

While wheat has been consistently bred to create more resistant and productive crops, ancient grains are the same today as they were hundreds of years ago, resulting in grains which are packed with flavor, texture and nutrients.

The market

According to Cassidy, many of these grains have been popular in non-Western cultures, but teff has been grown in the mountains of present-day Ethiopia, where it is a key ingredient in flatbread injera, while sorghum flour is a common ingredient in Indian roti or susu bukkumi cakes in Korea.

“Flours from these whole grains are also gaining popularity in American baking,” she adds.

Food Business News reports the U.S. ancient grains market will grow from $90.4 million in 2022 to $142.3 million by 2028, a nearly eight percent growth year-over-year. 

However, the all-purpose flour industry is only expected to grow by about three percent per year, according to a recent research study. 

“Consumers are increasingly seeking healthier organic and non-genetically-modified varieties of all-purpose flour as they opt for more nutritious and sustainable baking options,” Cassidy writes.

“The shift to ancient grains reflects broader food and baking trends, but curiosity about innovative flavors, healthier options and eco-friendly choices have significantly increased the popularity of ancient grains, even with their higher cost,” Cassidy continues.

Flavor and nutrients

The predictable, neutral taste of all-purpose flour is a large part of what has made it so useful in baking, as it lets other flavors shine. 

Whereas, ancient grains offer more complex flavors and, depending on the way they are milled, a distinct texture which can enhance baked goods.

Cassidy mentions amaranth and teff have an earthy flavor, while Kamut is buttery and sorghum is slightly sweet. Spelt and buckwheat flour can bring extra tenderness to baked goods in small amounts or make them drier in large quantities.

Consumer awareness is shifting towards more wholesome and nutrient-dense ingredients, and in their 2024 State of Healthy Eating and Wellness Report, 62 percent of millennials and Gen Z’ers are willing to sacrifice spending on fashion for healthy food, while 55 percent would sacrifice tech spending to eat healthier.

“Ancient grains deliver when it comes to health,” she notes. “Whole grains and ancient grains have more protein, fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants than refined all-purpose flours, and substituting ancient grain flours can help manage weight and reduce the risk of heart disease, diabetes and stroke.”

Some ancient grains are naturally gluten-free. Buckwheat, amaranth, teff and sorghum contain no gluten, making them excellent gluten-free flours for those with celiac or gluten intolerance.

Farming

Ancient grains are more sustainable, requiring less water, fertilizer and pesticides, and grains like millet can grow well in harsh conditions and extreme climates.

In 2018, the University of Wyoming (UW) conducted a project to develop a new niche agricultural market for the state by producing first grains.

As a result of the project, the Neolithic brand was founded as a research and economic development project by Tom Foulke, a research scientist in the UW College of Agriculture, Life Sciences and Natural Resources. 

The goal of Neolithic is to create jobs and enhance income in Wyoming’s agricultural sector by adding diversity to cropping choices available to farmers by essentially creating a vertically-oriented niche industry for these grains from the farm, through processing to developing markets.

Today, the organization sells spelt, emmer wheat and Ethiopian blue emmer in either bulk, super sacks or 50-pound bags.

Another local ancient grain grower is Wyoming Heritage Grains, located in the state’s northwest corner, only 70 miles from Yellowstone National Park.

Wyoming Heritage Grains has been family owned and operated since 1946, according to their website, and is focused on regenerative practices specializing in heirloom and heritage wheats, barleys and ryes.

Melissa Anderson is the editor of the Wyoming Livestock Roundup. Send comments on this article to roundup@wylr.net.